Constructing Super-stud/Bolt tires

[simer]

Read and understand the SCCV ITT rules!
Rules here: https://sccv.org/wp/ice-time-trial/

Tires:
All-season tires with minimal snow sipes are best. Checkerboard pattern tread is a great advantage for creating a pattern.

*Snow tires* Unless you cut the tread block off, they are too squirmy. You could place bolts between tread blocks but there usually isn’t enough room for the washer.

Tire Size: To minimize the chance of damaging wheel well liners, a smaller-than-OEM tire is recommended. OEM tire diameter can be found on tirerack.com among other places on the internet. I chose a 1” smaller-than-OEM tire and that allowed me to run my summer ride height (lowered on coilovers) without rubbing.

If driving through deep snow, a narrower tire will be advantageous. On the contrary, an OEM or wider tire is advantageous for clear, plowed courses.

Bolt Quantity: For SCCV, in order to determine how many bolts you can have per tire you must measure and do some math. (circumference of your tires in inches divided by 12) x 30 = total number of bolts per tire. If you have a 74.5” circumference, round down to 74”.

Example: (74 / 12) x 30 = 185 bolts per tire.

Be sure to reference your club’s rules for their latest tire regulations.

Bolt Length: Typically 1-1/4” length bolts will get you in the ballpark for bolt protrusion, leaning towards the long side. Sharpening the bolts with a stud sharpener can sharpen and trim them to length. If you don’t plan to sharpen your bolts, 1 or 1-1/8” length bolts may be a better choice.

Hardware: Grade 8 hardware is a must for longevity. If grade 8 isn’t available, I choose stainless steel components to resist corrosion.

Link to hardware I used: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xpmGOr ... p=drivesdk

Sharpening bolts:
*Eye protection is highly recommended!
*Metal chips/shavings can be razor sharp.
*Do not sharpen bolts over carpet as the metal chips will be difficult to clean up.

I recommend the Woodys Stud sharpening tool because it has carbide cutters that are replaceable. Grade 8 bolts are very tough and will prematurely wear out cheaper sharpeners.

Utilize a bench vise or something similar to hold each bolt while sharpening. Spray a small amount of lubricant, such as WD-40, in the sharpener every 10-20 bolts. *Sharpen but do not reduce length until the bolt is fully torqued and a measurement has been taken.

Sharpening the bolts prior to installation will make it easier to push the bolt through the tire.

Bolt Pattern: Thumb tacks are great for creating a pattern. Make a pattern, take a picture, than try another until you’re satisfied. This method allows you to find the most efficient pattern while utilizing the maximum number of bolts the regulations allow.

Drilling: A brad point drill bit is helpful but not necessary. The drill bit should be 1/16” smaller than the diameter of the bolt. This is important as it will aid in preventing air leaking past the bolts. If using 1/4” bolts, use a 3/16” drill bit.

Sealant: Prior to pushing bolts through the tire, it’s recommended that bolts are dipped in sealant. Roofing sealant is a good choice and can be sourced from local hardware stores.

Once the bolt is pushed through the tire, more sealant should be applied prior to the outside washer and nut being torqued.

If tires show signs of leaking, a sealant, such as liqui-tune from NAPA, can be used to supplement the bolt sealant once tires are mounted on wheels.

Torque: 1/4” grade 8 bolts should be properly torqued: 9-10 lb/ft.

Tire Pressure: 30-40psi should suffice but varies from tire to tire. Frequently monitor tire pressures to avoid tire and wheel damage. Low tire pressure could lead to unseated tire beads resulting in a flat tire.

Care and Maintenance: Care must be taken when handling completed bolt-tires by hand. Sharpened bolts are obviously sharp and can easily cut or gouge anything it contacts.

Avoid driving over surfaces that could damage or dull your bolts.