Sports Car Club of Vermont

DaveVT02S wrote:So, ACT clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing 'kit', a bunch of the related wear parts that are only replaceable when the transmissions out of the car (t/o bearing guide, seals, clutch lever bushings), a new wear surface for the l/w flywheel, and a B&M short shifter: enroute

p.s. - Thanks again, Thompson, for the Bentley manual help...

Yuppers, you're welcome Looks like you've got a good bunch of parts to keep you busy. The bonnet isn't as bad I thought it would be - come on a Land Rover? Stout little bugger MINI!

TSR53 wrote:The bonnet isn't as bad I thought it would be - come on a Land Rover? Stout little bugger MINI!

It doesn't show in the pic.s, but it's pushed in enough that the internal structure is bent (slightly), and one side sticks out from the fascia about 1/4" (one side is perfect) - body shop said they could repair it, but their labor estimate and a new hood are a dollar apart, so that's kind of a no brainer. As soon as it looks like Spring is really coming I'm ordering the hood and having it drop-shipped to them (along w/ new intercooler scoop - M7 Ram or Vortex, maybe? )...

http://www.ddmtuning.com/ FWIW, Thompson (and Eric, and other MINI/BMW and German car owners), this is my new "go-to" site for genuine OEM parts. Everything I've looked for is in stock, along with performance parts and "bling" - pick the part number from RealOEM.com, plug it into DDM's search box and it pops right up. Good discounts from BMW list prices - a bushing for the clutch rod I had found for $6.78 they sell for $1 - but shipping (FedEx only) seems a little high; but don't have to www for hours trying to find that "one little piece". In my case, ordered all the "wear" parts to replace when the trans is out of the car: release bearing guide tube (new style, smooth - old style is parker-ized), clutch rod bushings, shaft seal, etc. $60 in preventative replacement while it's apart makes more sense than having to rip it back out because of a $12 seal

The DDMTuning HID fog kit looks tasty for only $40. Like I need more light...

"How I Spent My Monday - Tales of the Special Little Car"


The the cylinder head decided it no longer wanted the #3 spark plug to be part of the team, and ejected it late Sunday afternoon when I started the car. At least it was in the driveway, and I knew what that "POP!" was the minute I heard it. Maybe the NGK's rebelling because it knew I got some Brisk Racing replacements (traitor) - anyway...

Spent most of Monday trying to get it fixed: got the insert kit from AZ on Sunday, the tap has a 3/4" hex on the end instead of the standard square - just a 3/4" socket and a 12" extension and good to go, right? A 3/4" socket is too big for the spark plug tube. Lots of wasted time searching out alternatives finally brought me to the bench grinder; CAREFULLY ground the hex down to 16mm-ish size, a bit of shim stock and plastic tape to wedge it in, and ... the insert is in and all is well.

The long version / DIY here: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/fo ... -head.html

I've often found that the "simple" jobs rarely are.

Glad to see it all worked out.

Oh, you'll find nothing ends up simple on these.

BTW (in case you hadn't heard this), make sure you check your plugs' torque regularly, at least every oil change - 20-22 ft/lb COLD (like, sitting overnight cold) - and if you R&R them, w/in 500 miles after. #2 and #3 like to loosen up, something about the configuration of the water jackets and the differing rates of heat expansion with the aluminum heads and the steel plug threads...

Glad to see it all worked out.

Yeah, me, too. Was looking like the hood-repair and new-tires budget was going to be redirected to a new (used) cylinder head - $30 beats $700+ anyday

DaveVT02S wrote:Oh, you'll find nothing ends up simple on these.

I have already seen this first hand. Mary and I drove up to Milton the other day and stopped to grab a quick lunch at McDonalds. We came out and the car would not start, no clicks, no crank, no lights, nothing. I fiddle around with it and it finally starts. I left it running until we got back home (had a stop in between), and tried to start it, no start. Went to work and got the booster pac, nothing. Called AAA and had it towed to the shop. We finally got the the hatch open and found the positive battery cable was so loose I could move it with my hand...

So now I know. (1) Battery is in the trunk (2) how to bypass the power locks and get the rear hatch open manually (3) Battery was recently replaced and good.

All is well now though. These are great little cars and fun to drive, but they are very tempermental (as far as I can tell)...

If you think they are temperamental, you should try an original one.

sachilles wrote:If you think they are temperamental, you should try an original one.

Is it because you're trying to make it a hybrid (British car w/ Asian motor)?

It was temperamental with the british motor. The asian motor is to make it less temperamental.

When your gearbox resides in your oil pan, you really can't expect great things. I blew my motor idling the car in reverse.