Ryan's Miata Project

[MX5 Driver]

That looks awesome Tim but it appears I can only register if I've raced in the Miata before.

In the past, they allowed you to register if you sent the the info on your "Project" racer along with some pics. This is how I had originally registered. It looks like this is still an option.

Before continuing there is some information you will need.

If you have already raced your Mazda:
You will need race results in your Mazda from within the past 12 months.

OR

If you are building your Mazda for racing:
If you are preparing your Mazda now, and intend to be racing within the next 12 months you will need

1. The estimate date of the first race you intend to compete in. (Within 12 months)
2. A Racing Club Membership Card - Any sanctioned racing club. (car clubs not included)
3. A Quality Photo of your car. (does not need to be in race trim)

If you do not yet have ALL information, please come back and apply when you do.

If you HAVE all required information, please click the Continue button.

Follow this link to get there....

[DaveP189]

"1st Annual Ryan's Driveway Wintercross" has a nice ring to it...

[Dave_G]

To follow up on Tim's post, autocrosses count as "races." SCCV counts as a "Racing Club," because we hold autocrosses.

When I joined, I sent them a photo of my Miata in the garage, on jack stands, in the process of getting its roll bar installed. I didn't run my first autocross with it until later. That was good enough for them. They're actually not that picky.

Once you've joined, you just need to send them results from two autocrosses (or races, time trials, etc) per year to keep your membership active.

It's a great deal. I get almost all my Mazda parts that way. I can't remember the last time I actually visited PJ's. (Don't tell them I said that.) What's also cool is that the parts deal is also good for other non-raced Mazdas in your household, so I can get parts for my wife's Mazda6 that way too.

Mazda knows how to treat their motorsports customers.

[DaveEstey]

Honda has the same deal but they want a national club (ie SCCA, NASA) membership to register

[lawdogg]

So for a membership card, do I just scan in my SCCV card that I wrote my name on? Or are they looking for something else?

If it isn't too much trouble ... Tim or Dave (or Nathan? if you're part of that parts program) would you mind checking out the pricing on a timing belt + pulleys + water pump + seals + gaskets? Thanks!

[gtivr4]

Just fill in this:
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/registration.htm

[lawdogg]

Good deal, done, let's see if it all goes through.

(Gonna be interesting since I don't have a 2010 SCCV membership card yet ...)

[lawdogg]

Dave, Nathan, anyone with a 90-91, do any of you have a SNC engine? I do, and I'm a little apprehensive about doing the timing belt because of it. I do plan on putting in a new bolt & key (with the loctite fix, torqued to 84.5 ft-lbs) ... just seeing if you guys have ever had any issues with it.

[gtivr4]

I've yet to change my timing belt, largely because of this issue. I'd love to have someone with experience to help/do it, since this is when it can go bad! From what I understand, if you apply the correct torque, it shouldn't be an issue, but there is little room for error.

[Dave_G]

Dave, Nathan, anyone with a 90-91, do any of you have a SNC engine? I do, and I'm a little apprehensive about doing the timing belt because of it. I do plan on putting in a new bolt & key (with the loctite fix, torqued to 84.5 ft-lbs) ... just seeing if you guys have ever had any issues with it.

I have the short-nose crank in my '90. I replaced the bolt and key and have not had any issues with it. It's not difficult to do, and definitely a good idea to do it -- just go slow and careful and be sure you're doing everything exactly right. This isn't a place to be cutting corners or winging it.

Make sure you use a brand-new bolt and key, and that the key is put in the right way (putting it in backwards is reportedly a common cause of failures). Put blue Loctite on the bolt, and torque it to exactly 84.5 ft-lbs., and hope that your torque wrench is close to correctly calibrated.

BTW, the "Loctite Fix" is only needed if the keyway in the crankshaft nose is already worn. It's a way of using red Loctite to fill in the big gap in the keyway so that you don't need to replace your crankshaft. If the keyway isn't worn, you don't need to do the Loctite fix. (But you should still use blue Loctite on the bolt threads.)