Didn't get a chance to check the blower oil level , the alternator arrived faster than I planned. Definitely on the to do list, soon. One good thing about it is there's GM dealers all over the place (recommended source for the oil). Research has thus-far told me I don't need any replacement gaskets to remove the water pump from the back of the supercharger - necessary to access the rear fill plug, which is the worst culprit. Also trying to fab up some kind of magnet to fit thru the fill hole to check for metal, before I get it open :fingerscrossed: ...
The MFE is loose as soon as the 'real' aluminum bumper and those plastic mollies attaching the fender liners (four, plus one small bolt, on each side) are removed. Only other thing to disconnect is the holder/clamp for the top rad hose for more movement, but gotta fab me some of them threaded supports. The only reason to have to unbolt the subframe extensions is because the flanges interfere with forward movement. Pulling out the MFE gives an extra 8-10" of room to work (from, well, 0 inches
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
), and is then only limited in travel by the fog and front lights wiring harness. No kidding, another couple of these issues and I'll be ripping the front end apart as fast as Joey rips into a Subie
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
. The main advantage, of course, is not having to pull the rad...
The alternator bolts pretty solidly to the block, I'm pretty sure it vibrated itself to death from the rear bushing going bad. Thinking back, for a while it was making a slight rattle somewhere 'down there' when first started; it's packed so snug in there, with a lot going on (it's under the supercharger and the intake manifold, right above the a/c compressor, so plenty of noise to deal with already) and with it being the rear of the alternator, the noise was tough to source (the old "drive it 'til it breaks" diagnostic). The tensioner 'hold-back' strap breaking during the belt change prior to SLMP III and the corrosion probably didn't help...
(pic after the 'new' one arrived, before the pulley swap) (easy, Nathan, it's OEM)
Jason, that sucks about your T/C tensioner - was under warranty, right? Especially since it's not a new engine (sourced from Peugeot); but who knows how much BMW re-engineered it. I firmly believe a two year old used car is the best deal - but with the use (or lack of) some of these MINI's get, I'd like to finish the 'learning process' on this car, get a few other things in my life straightened around and start looking for a low-mileage 2006 MCS for a longer term 'investment' (time and mod.s) - last year of the superchargers, and all my parts will swap (saved everything I removed for mod.s). It's much better to have time to really shop - had to buy something after my 300m was totaled, and literally stumbled onto this MINI the next day. Has happened twice in my life, and the previous time (Jan '86) I bought my GLH Turbo (new) - pattern, maybe?
I consider myself pretty lucky so far: bought w/ 47k, owned it 25 months (now 68k), 5 AutoX's, 3 SLMP w/ends, an afternoon @ Napierville, spirited driving in between, and all I've had to fix are the wiper motor (my fault), the alternator, and the LCA bushings (jinx!)...